Lemma Edeto, the patriarch and owner of the Nigusse Lemma family farm, has been in the coffee business in Limu for 60 years. He began farming during Haile Selassie’s rule, but in the 1970’s, under the Communist Derg regime, his property and his business were confiscated. The farm is back under the family’s control, and are operating the highest altitude coffee farm in Limu. The farm is covered in old growth shade trees and has an abundance of natural springs. There are multiple varietals growing on the farm, but many have not been classified, which is typical in Ethiopia. The family also operates their own Pinhalense dry-huller, giving them full control of the coffee up until the final stage of export.

We have a soft spot for good Indonesian coffees and this is one. This offering from that Preanger Estate in Java has a creamy mouthfeel with hints of flowers and spices. It has a bright, earthy finish. Although we would put this in a category of a low-acidity coffee, it is definitely toward the top of end of that category.

The volcanic soil on the side of this mountain is very fertile and many other crops, from potatoes to cacao, share space with the coffee. The Preanger is grown in a region of Java that used to be all about coffee back in Dutch colonial days. Later farmers got out of coffee in favor of other crops. Recently, exporters and other professionals in the coffee industry have been working with the agricultural communities there to foster a resurgence in specialty coffee.

The terrain is so steep that even four-wheel drive vehicles become useless about 3,000 feet, and you move up on foot. Coffee cherries are brought back down to the collection point via scooter.

We’ll roast some for you this week, if you like.